Monthly Archives: November 2012

Wheelbased

finally finished the wheel base for the cherokee, thank god the m4 threaded rod is cheap, because i’ve probably made about 3 sets of lower links until i was completely satisfied with it. I have also converted the scx10 to a 4 link. Some how i’ve managed to miscalculate the amount of rod ends i need , so the front upper links are on spare axial rod ends i had left over from the Wraith. im also running low on the aluminium tube , so the upper links are bare atm, i will cover them with nitro tubbing or aluminium ones, which ever comes first.

standing properly at last

 

next on the agenda , cut the front and rear bumper sections of the body so it fits better , also raise the bumper up a notch so it doesn’t get stuck on everything.  replace the servo and wire in the BEC and maybe get some driving done , before the first snowfalls happen

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Boiling Oranges

Phew, didn’t look like much but these wheels gave me a work out , mostly with the bead lock screws, but boiling them also was fun.

i used the boiling method of removing the glued tires because supposedly its the least stinky one.

its simple, bring some water to boil , add the glued tire and wheel, boil for about 8 minute per side , remove and cool down with water then gently pull the bead away from the wheel , you should hear some cracking . if you still get some stuck parts boil it some more .After you are done , clean the glue from the tires with acetone.  Because i glued the tires poorly the first time i did manage to remove the foams so those didn’t get wet , i guess sloppy work is good for something 🙂

the boiling method

After the boiling came the fun part of the bead lock screws , oh boy , i need to get hex tips so i can use a drill ,  almost an hour for 48 screws is too much !

Before

After

The wider stance and the wheel weights should improve crawling performance a lot !

Two more before and after shots, note the wider stance

stock Axial Wraith Kit wheels

Axial Rockstars 2.2 wheels

Wider=Better

The bead locks for the Wraith today , they are used 2.2 Axial Rockstars, extra bonus , they are already weighted by the previous user @Rccrawler forums

not bad for 35 USD shipped .

Coppernicus

masking well done

Here’s an update on the Cherokee project . the painting is done . We started with plenty of masking then black  details, main copper color, silver backing and a light smoke tint for the windows . Let’s talk about the the Tamiya PS-14 Copper color . its fantastic , pictures don’t do it justice. Both me and Mojca were surprised how great it looks . It changes depending on the light you look at it and the angle . great great color !

 

Next for the Cherokee, i need to make the custom wheel base for the scx10 so it looks right, by then the other bumper should arrive so i can finish cutting the body to the final shape, i know its not ideal to cut the body after painting , but i’ll make the best out of it . Its going to look good , trust me !

 

Painting indoors , is well , smelly . But it is good to know i can do it in the winter if there is an emergency need .

Link up

Today i made my own links for the Wraith and SCX-10 (well , i did the SCX-10 yesterday , but no matter)

 

Made my own links !

 

Its quite simple: all you need is a dremel, m4 threaded rod, aluminium tube and some rod ends (Traxxas 5347) and 4mm tapper .

1. tapp the rod ends

2. measure and cut the threaded rod

3. put together and measure the aluminium tube size then disassemble

4. cut the aluminium tube and put it back together

its not as pretty as the aluminium ones from the manufacturers , but its a whole lot cheaper, and you get to fabricate something.

wraith DIY upper links

a word of advice, make sure you wear safety glasses when using the dremel !! lots of small hot particles will be painful if you catch in the eye for example. i also managed to destroy a couple of cutting disks as i had problems with the locking nut . a new nut was acquired and now its a pleasure to work.

The Wraith now has all metal links, one of the plastic ones was broken a bit , at the next rougher tumble it might have snapped , no worries now .

proper steering links for the SCX-10

Tomorrow , ill make the links for the SCX10 necessary for the 4 link suspension. Just replacing the steering links from the bendy plastic will kill the servo quicker , but driving it now is as night and day, when the servo goes ill just replace it with a 15kg one i have spare .

here’s a nice video from  Dribble @ RCSparks on making your own links, which should clear up any questions, i’ve used it myself before starting the process .

 

Tardis

no , not the doctor who Tardis… AutoSmart Tardis.

what is the AutoSmart Tardis, its a way to remove paint from a lexan body in a more economical way than the Tamiya Polycarbonate body cleaner .

it works ! behold the result :

 

 

Note : this body was painted with a tamiya acrylic paint, not the lexan one, but im sure it works as well for that as well , will report on that later .

The Tardis does have a minus though , it stinks really badly! make sure your cleaning area is well ventilated . if possible even wear a face mask when working with it .  i need to get a mask , feeling a bit tipsy , but not in a good way .

 

i’ve cleaned most of the body in about 30 mins , still need to do the other side . it works really well, if i didn’t care about the decals i would just soak the whole body in it .  now i spray it , let it soak for a bit then  wipe with a paper towel . in the tight spots i’ve used a cheap brush

i am almost done with the truck , used a bit of the tardis, but its cheap .  will finish up tomorrow, but i am already very satisfied with the result! A big thanks to Darren for getting this for me !

 

 

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