Monthly Archives: December 2013

Blazer body … Sawback build pt6

More Sawback progress , the body arrived today .


it is a PL3244-00 Pro-Line 1980 Chevy Blazer Clear Body for T-Maxx/Savage/Revo 2.5 

the wheelbase is 2mm shorter than the GS01 Chassis and it shows in the front , but with a bit of cutting in the front it will be fine , i’m not going for the total stock look anyway.



i mock mounted with some spare aluminium tubing , the way it is now ,it sits too high , i also need to chop up the front and remove the molded bumper and the grill.



the grill area will get replaced by a clodbuster abs chevy replica, i might go for sdi square arches as well .



also i want to make some stealth mounts this time so there won’t be any body pins used , also i need make up my mind on the paint scheme , i’m almost there , almost



CMS mod and new wheels … Sawback Builld pt5

its modding time.


The Sawback CMS (chassis mounted servo) is super easy to do , as the stock servo mount lines up with the holes of the body and shock mount. i use two of the left over spacers to space the holes away from the chassis and longer screws from the kit left overs. Then you just mount the servo upside down and space it down with anything you can find, i used some 3mm nuts and servo mount dampers.


I have also used some plastic spacers to move the tie rod above the leaf and made a new longer drag link so i get equal servo throw in both directions. If you use the stock drag link then its basically a free mod since most of the hardware is included .


Next i have added some of these wonderful RC4wd Dick Cepek Gun Metal 7 1.9″ Internal Beadlock Wheels , i got them used a while back for a  different project, but they will sit on this one now. They look absolutely wonderful. The wheel weights on them are 70grams in the front and 60grams in the back , which adds up to the 67grams of the wheels itself.


To make the installation easier i used this little contraption made out of a bolt a lock nut and two servo horns .


It provides and easier way to apply equal pressure on both sides of the bead.


you line the beads up on the front , add the front internals, then line up the rear bead in the back and apply the rear ring then screw the holder together to add pressure, then just screw the wheel together, much easier than applying pressure by hand.


before mounting the tires i gave them a thorough wash with a degreaser, they should be more sticky now.

Body Set Sold … Sawback build pt4

Regarding the Sawback body , i have never planed on using it since its a bit too big for me scale wise, so i have sold it .



it is a very nice representation of a Willys Jeep, albeit in a bigger scale than i could use , the replacement body is in the mail .



Specs:Length: 419mm (16.50 inch)

Width: 214mm (8.42 inch)

Height: 164mm (6.45 inch)92mm (3.62 inch) (Windshield folded)

Wheelbase: 287mm (11.30 inch)

its a roller ! … Sawback build pt3

The build is in the final stretch


its easier to bolt on all the bits to one chassis rail , since its stiffer


it was a bit fiddly getting the nuts into the mounting hole


mounting the axles is the same as with the shackles with more plastic crush tubes and nuts and lock nuts


i was quite surprised with the friction shocks on how smooth they are , they were a bit weird to build with the small c rings which limit the shock travel. whilst putting the first one in i figured out that its much easier if you use a small allen key to push it in whilst holding the other side with your fingers, when one side pops in , just hold it there and use the allen key to pop the other side in , very easy .


i like how the shock don’t use a ball cup but a  flanged holder .


the super shiny bumper uses two serrated lock nuts for mounting , getting those into position was a bit frustrating but nothing like the next bit .


Dear Gmade , the 3 piece bead lock design needs a bit of a rethink , it took me about two hours of getting them together perfectly, even the cat was not amused !


the 3 piece wheel looks nice but getting it together and making it stay on the bead was a pain .


you are supposed to use two longer screws to bring the pieces together then add the smaller 10mm ones and then replace the longer ones.


i had problems of getting equal pressure on both beads , so if one side was right the other had a spot where it didn’t engage the bead. it took me ages of a million retries to get all 4 done.


i don’t know if its the bead size of these tires which makes them problematic for the 3 piece internal beadlock design .  I might try them out later on with a different style of wheel.


the wheel pin hex adaptors are plastic, i wish they were metal. They do include two different offsets out of the box.


The cat decided to join in and now we have a rolling chassis, next step the electronics and the mods , but first one more cat picture.


He is a roller too 😀

Chassied… Sawback Build pt2

Woohoo, more than 10.000 views ! not bad isn’t it ?


With the leafs i went against the manual and put the medium under the big spring, this should be good to prevent bending of the main spring according to RCC, i have no experience with leaf suspensions so ill be going with that for a start.


i like how the leaf holder and the hoops are metal. the lock nut combination bolt combination makes it easier to judge how much you have tightened them , so the pressure is even on the leaf.


i had a bit of a problem of getting the ball cups into the steering rods . its easier if you hold the ball cup with pliers and try to move the plastic instead of the other way around it is with traxxas rod ends.


The transmission went together pretty smoothly , still no sign of self tapping plastic screws which gets a big thumbs up !!


The skid plate with the rollers is a bit different , don’t know if i will keep it this way . the gearbox mounting screws are the same length , so  there is no chance of a mixup like with the axial.


The drive shafts look robust , had to trim a bit of fleshing of. The yokes only have one pin the other on is put in separately then locked with a grub screw .


The driveshafts and outputs are cross drilled same as the with axial, but are longer , i don’t think they will back out.


The chassis and metals parts are super shiny , maybe a bit too much , might strip it later and repaint black.


The shackle mounts have plastic crush tubes in between them and the chassis , this seems as good solution so you don’t bend them by over tightening.


The body posts and shock mounts use serrated edge lock nuts for a secure hold.


Chassis rails built and ready , I have swapped around the body posts as the intended body will be taller on the back than on the front.  I had a bit of an issue finding a proper length screw then i realized that one more screw bag has not been opened .

A new leaf … Sawback build pt1

What is this ? a new Kit after a whole year of just hop ups  ? I have been saving money trough out the year. At first the funds were meant for Mojca’s Rubicon, but then this got released.

Straight from Korea

Gmade 1/10 GS01 Sawback 4WD Kit

GS01 Front Drive CVA Kit


I have been eyeing this truck ever since details started to appear, a leaf suspension based truck for Dingo Kit money , what is there not to like there!  I will change the body to something different, but more on that when it arrives .


First building impressions are overly positive, the packaging is nice and effective, the manual also. The reinforced plastics give an over all Tamiya vibe which is very good .  I like the one piece locker spool. The screws are philips headed which is a bit of a bummer, but they are good quality and are machine screws not the self cutting ones.


The only upgrade i went with out of the box are the CVA’s which improve the stock steering of 32 degrees to 42. They went together nicely , except for the joint grease getting everywhere and making it dirty. The shafts look pretty stout and a bit different to the touch of the metals i’m used too, but probably it is because it is the carbon steel which Gmade uses.


The use of 4mm E-rings for holding bearings on the straight rear axle also reminded me of Tamiya .


The axles came together nicely , plus points for the differential covers being metal and not chromed plastic.

Due to other obligations this is all that i was able to build for today , but i must say i am overly impressed by the kit, the skepticism of some of the people on RCC was unfair.

Twin rotors

the winter down period, bad weather, less light , a bit less time and than this came along …


Blade MCX2

I bought an used Blade MCX2 with a Spektrum DX4E from Ebay , it came with a broken flybar but that got replaced and i have been flying it around the living room pretty much all the time since. Its my first Heli and even though its a coaxial it is a 4 channel so all the basics are there . I can really recommend it as a first heli , its stable , and both me and Mojca are total newbies at this and we got the hang of it super quick.


Broken flybar, broken swashplate ball link and the Diy Ball link remover

The only thing that i broke whilst trying to tweak it is the ball head on the swash plate whilst trying to remove the link, so i made a DIY ball link remover from a set of old tweezers (inspired by the internet, not my own idea) also on the modding side i changed the lights to solid instead of blinking.

Its a great little Heli, it flies great and the parts are cheap !


all the mess

The old workspace is super messy but that will get tidied up very very soon ,because a special package just needs to be cleared by customs . Im really looking forward to it, all i can say is that it has made its journey all the way from Korea!

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