Category Archives: GS01

trimmed Knuckles… Sawback high steering mod

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I’ve received some LEDs and a set of GPM Tamiya DF03 knuckles , which are not for the DF03 but are used as High steering knuckles for the Sawback.

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The stock knuckle is just a 1mm narrower than the Df03 one , so all you need to do is grind down half a millimeter on both sides and it fits perfectly .

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i’ve used a m3 nut to raise the steering link over the leaf , now i need a longer steering horn because the steering link hits the nut on the right side full compression.

 

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like watching paint dry …

the recipe for watching paint dry:

a bit of PS-5 Black  follow up with  PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue, back it with PS-1 White to brighten it up a bit, then add PS-57 Pearl White and back it all with PS-12 Silver and you get this :

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now to let it dry overnight , tint the windows and maybe do a coat of PS-55 Flat Clear. I like it a lot even though i forgot to mask off the rear lights 😀

The 2 year place holder

its been two years since this blog started. I am sure you are expecting more on the Sawback Blazer , well you will have to wait for two more weeks. I will be out of the country till then , so with that i leave you with this lovely cut out

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see you soon!

Its all coming together … Sawback Build pt 9

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It’s been a tough last week , i’ve been sick ,  but finally all the body parts are here.

– Tamiya PS59 Dark Metallic Blue

– Tamiya PS1 White

– Tamiya PS57 White Pearl

– used Super Clodbuster grill 

– customcuts.de Chevy Grill insert

Also i’ have finally solved the wheel base problem, so here is the definite guide on how to get the 285mm wheelbase on the Sawback:

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on the front you move the rear fixed shackle back one hole and drill the other one , on the front front you flip the front shackle holder so it points backwards, you also flip the shackle , if that does not provide the desired wheelbase , remove the leafs and bend them together a bit , you can also do that on the back.

Electronics and Drilling … Sawback built pt8

The electronics for the Sawback are now finalized and installed:

– Savox SC-0251 MG Servo

– Axial AE-2 ESC

– Mabuchi 540SH 27 turn motor 

– Castle 10Amp BEC

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The ESC i got used from a friend , its a Castle Sidewinder basically , great little ESC , The motor is a stand in until i can get my hands on a 35t, the servo i had planed for the next scaler project, its running on 6v coming from a Castle BEC.

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i drilled a new hole on the front of the chassis and moved the front fixed shackle back a bit , this shortens the wheelbase a bit .

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the body does not sit right at the moment , because the front is too high , so next step will be the cutting.

Proper CMS … Sawback Build Pt7

Time for a proper CMS  for the Sawback…

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GM52411S  Gmade  GS01 Chassis Mounted Steering Servo Kit

The DIY cms as is free and all , but i did not like the way it flexes , and for less than 20eur shipped from Junfac this was a no brainer.

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This one goes into the chassis sideways so no more flex, it also stiffens the chassis significantly. all the hardware is hex this time . The frame screws go into the body posts holes.

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i plan to do some wheelbase mods so i didn’t tighten down the steering .

Blazer body … Sawback build pt6

More Sawback progress , the body arrived today .

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it is a PL3244-00 Pro-Line 1980 Chevy Blazer Clear Body for T-Maxx/Savage/Revo 2.5 

the wheelbase is 2mm shorter than the GS01 Chassis and it shows in the front , but with a bit of cutting in the front it will be fine , i’m not going for the total stock look anyway.

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i mock mounted with some spare aluminium tubing , the way it is now ,it sits too high , i also need to chop up the front and remove the molded bumper and the grill.

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the grill area will get replaced by a clodbuster abs chevy replica, i might go for sdi square arches as well .

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also i want to make some stealth mounts this time so there won’t be any body pins used , also i need make up my mind on the paint scheme , i’m almost there , almost

 

CMS mod and new wheels … Sawback Builld pt5

its modding time.

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The Sawback CMS (chassis mounted servo) is super easy to do , as the stock servo mount lines up with the holes of the body and shock mount. i use two of the left over spacers to space the holes away from the chassis and longer screws from the kit left overs. Then you just mount the servo upside down and space it down with anything you can find, i used some 3mm nuts and servo mount dampers.

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I have also used some plastic spacers to move the tie rod above the leaf and made a new longer drag link so i get equal servo throw in both directions. If you use the stock drag link then its basically a free mod since most of the hardware is included .

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Next i have added some of these wonderful RC4wd Dick Cepek Gun Metal 7 1.9″ Internal Beadlock Wheels , i got them used a while back for a  different project, but they will sit on this one now. They look absolutely wonderful. The wheel weights on them are 70grams in the front and 60grams in the back , which adds up to the 67grams of the wheels itself.

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To make the installation easier i used this little contraption made out of a bolt a lock nut and two servo horns .

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It provides and easier way to apply equal pressure on both sides of the bead.

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you line the beads up on the front , add the front internals, then line up the rear bead in the back and apply the rear ring then screw the holder together to add pressure, then just screw the wheel together, much easier than applying pressure by hand.

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before mounting the tires i gave them a thorough wash with a degreaser, they should be more sticky now.

Body Set Sold … Sawback build pt4

Regarding the Sawback body , i have never planed on using it since its a bit too big for me scale wise, so i have sold it .

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it is a very nice representation of a Willys Jeep, albeit in a bigger scale than i could use , the replacement body is in the mail .

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Specs:Length: 419mm (16.50 inch)

Width: 214mm (8.42 inch)

Height: 164mm (6.45 inch)92mm (3.62 inch) (Windshield folded)

Wheelbase: 287mm (11.30 inch)

its a roller ! … Sawback build pt3

The build is in the final stretch

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its easier to bolt on all the bits to one chassis rail , since its stiffer

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it was a bit fiddly getting the nuts into the mounting hole

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mounting the axles is the same as with the shackles with more plastic crush tubes and nuts and lock nuts

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i was quite surprised with the friction shocks on how smooth they are , they were a bit weird to build with the small c rings which limit the shock travel. whilst putting the first one in i figured out that its much easier if you use a small allen key to push it in whilst holding the other side with your fingers, when one side pops in , just hold it there and use the allen key to pop the other side in , very easy .

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i like how the shock don’t use a ball cup but a  flanged holder .

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the super shiny bumper uses two serrated lock nuts for mounting , getting those into position was a bit frustrating but nothing like the next bit .

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Dear Gmade , the 3 piece bead lock design needs a bit of a rethink , it took me about two hours of getting them together perfectly, even the cat was not amused !

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the 3 piece wheel looks nice but getting it together and making it stay on the bead was a pain .

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you are supposed to use two longer screws to bring the pieces together then add the smaller 10mm ones and then replace the longer ones.

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i had problems of getting equal pressure on both beads , so if one side was right the other had a spot where it didn’t engage the bead. it took me ages of a million retries to get all 4 done.

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i don’t know if its the bead size of these tires which makes them problematic for the 3 piece internal beadlock design .  I might try them out later on with a different style of wheel.

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the wheel pin hex adaptors are plastic, i wish they were metal. They do include two different offsets out of the box.

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The cat decided to join in and now we have a rolling chassis, next step the electronics and the mods , but first one more cat picture.

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He is a roller too 😀

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