Category Archives: hop ups

Fancy Foams & Fancy Wheel Hubs

its been too long , i apologise ! i was really busy with work . The postman has been busy too ūüėÄ

Finally pulled the plug on the Crawler Innovations 4.25″ – 4.19″ Deuces Wild Closed cell foams

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The install is simple, i had to enlarge the inside to fit the wheel weights . it was really easy with a Dremel and sanding drum.

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the foams are waterproof, but need the tires to be vented ,  which was a weird psychological hurdle .

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i used a cheap hole punch to put in 3x2mm holes into the centre of the tire.

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the star cut 2.2 foams i used before have deformed after a year

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the DW foams are even firmer than the old foams, but i can still trip the forward ribs to increase forward bite.

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Rogue Elements did one last run of their wheel hub covers , they are super nice, really impressed with the details. they will replace the TSS covers on the Cherokee

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2015 is the year the Cherokee gets finished.

here is a sneak peek whats in store after i get back from Qatar in February.

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Shafted

Lets talk a bit about the Junfac Universal shafts

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during the strip down , one the grub screws which hold the pin in the CVD got stuck, i think it was a lemon because the others were fine. I managed to loosen it up that much that i could pull the pin out and then get just to the bit which holds then grub screw. Then i drilled it out from the other side and it worked like a charm without damaging the threads.

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People on RCC say that the pins are problematic and that double shrink wrapping is recommended.

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I got some Loctite 248 in stick form because the liquid one would run into the CVD cup and ruin the action, it was expensive at 20 EUR, but its good till the end of 2017

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The final product compared to the traxxas shafts i ran before.  I like how the diameter is smaller, looks better scale wise

Catching up

Time do some catching up of the last month.

 

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i received the R2j Land anchor which is a better size for the Cherokee ,the other one is just too big, and some sand boards from Ikketech.

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the third triangle black bits are the JCAD SCX10 RULR rear link risers for improved anti squat geometry , they required new rear links , but should work with stock ones , mine were already custom to begin with.

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in preparation for the G6 i’ve ordered a set of AXIAL AX30708¬†Hard Steel Locked Transmission Gear Set and the Jazrider Metal SCX10 gear case . This is the only case besides the Vanquish one which allows for running a mirrored transmission but for a much lower price point.

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installation went smoothly but i noticed that the outdrive which was drilled to accept trough pins was bound to fail and it did , well into a trail run with a friend. cue the long pause.

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about 3-4 weeks later this arrived from Korea and the US:

– Junfac Hardened Universal Shaft (82-117mm) 5mm hole (J90031)

РJunfac Hardened Universal Shaft (95-130mm) 5mm hole (J90032)  

РGmade 1.9 RH03 wheel hubs (Black) (4) (GM70134)  

–¬†RRPC1587¬†Robinson Racing Super Spur Gear 48P 87T AX10

РAXA1326 Axial Spacer 7.5x6mm Grey (6)

– AX30435 Axial Steel Outdrive Shaft Set (2)

– RC4WD OEM Steel 1.9 Stock Beadlock Wheel Hexes

–¬†STRC Machined Aluminum Motor Plate Black Axial Wraith

The shafts are self explanatory , the ¬†hubs are backup if the TSS wont work with the OEM hex hubs, because i can’t risk loosening tires on the G6 , the spacers are needed because the now metal transmission case isn’t flexing as before and i get some spur gear wobble because of that and i got a robinson spur gear just in case . The motor plate is a replacement for the stock one which is a bit bent which also contributes to the wobble. The outdrives are there to get back 4wd. Installation will follow as soon as i get some time together.

 

 

Skid

Keeping the center of gravity low with the droop shocks and the relatively short tires means that i tend to get high centered sometimes , usually i just power trough and slide over but today the remedy arrived …

TSS Smooth skid

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Its a real solid feeling chunk of delrin, much smoother than the stock Axial skid and also more rigid. I had problems getting it into the frame rails as i had to unscrew a lot of the braces .

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The required screws are m3 x 30-35 , i didn’t have any so some dremeling was on the menu , have to get some proper hex heads

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the only gripe i have with this skid is that it doesn’t accommodate for the ¬†upper link mounts so i’ve cut up some 3mm spacers out of aluminium tubing to move the upper links out of the frame rails.

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You can see the difference in clearance. You need to make the lower links a bit longer to keep the same wheelbase , but i kept the same links as its not that much of a difference.

Run until broken then replace

Since last time a couple of parts came in .

from Rene at www.rcoffroad.eu :

a fantastic looking Red Hook 

a ground anchor / pull pal for winching

and some synthetic scale dynema winch line

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The rope should be able to handle 90kg , so theoretically it should hold . i’ve tested the pull pall and it works lovely, just need to remember to apply some throttle when winching to help out the servo.

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the  hook is really pretty, just had to sand down the split pin ends so the danger of pricking yourself is gone.

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i have drilled some new holes in the plate and move the servo winch a bit more central. also painted the plate at the same time.

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when i was fiddling with the front axle i’ve notice that the C-hub is a bit bad , and it flexes a lot under torque , so i’ve put the truck on the stands and ordered some AX30495 Aluminium C hubs.

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They arrived today from Estonia. I got a super bargain on them as everything included on the picture for 30 Eur shipped.

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The axle is now super solid, and the steering is smoother now. Installing the STRC was a bit more complicated , but more on this next time.

 

a kingdom for a Dremel

my Dremel bit the dust when  drilling holes in the pro10s , so today was hacksaw fun day.

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Its because of these lovelies, TSS scale hub covers , no more m4 wheel nuts for me , i felt it was a fitting way to round up the scale of the wheels. They are great and will be even better when i paint them up, only issue i ran in was that for the pin mounts and the narrow offset the threaded ends of the axle was a bit too long , so i removed 2mm with a hacksaw, the cvds were too hard to saw trough so i asked a local exhaust guy who made easy work of them with a grinder.

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on rear i have installed some homemade wheel wheels out of a cut up  plastic bowl painted black , its pretty gheto but it works.20140518-rearsandnuts1

I did not like the sticker lights on the back so i made a light bucket holder out of 0.6mm aluminium sheeting.

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the plan is to run 3mm red reds in the top and 5mm whites as reverse lights in the lowers.

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painting the aluminium was a hassle , in the end i just painted directly over the sanded sheet , as the primer just would not set. i’ve also painted the lenses red.

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Wheels and nuts

I managed to get a super deal on a set of used Pro10 1.9 bead locks from Dready himself. for 50 Eur it was too good of an offer to pass up .

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They came already weighted and with a set of extenders with scale bolts . I went with the pin mounts to keep the truck as narrow as possible.  But i did not like the way they look with the normal hardware .

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So i’ve ordered up some scale acorn nuts from Lockedup RC , and it was worth every cent .

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The look difference in looks is amazing , now i need a scale hub cover to complete it .

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The weight compared  to the old axial 1.9 beadlock combo is same , those were weighted as well . The only thing that changed is the balance, the old front tire and wheel combo weighed 260grams , the new one weighs 220 grams, the old rears were 140 grams , the new ones are 180 grams. This shifted the center of gravity a bit back so there should be less front flips now.

 

Here are the bumpers !

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fresh from the powder coating here are the custom. bumpers and sliders my dad made . Turns getting bumpers made for a body which isn’t on exactly straight can be a bit of a bother.

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the front bumper features a winch fairlead made by friend , the design idea was to allow a better  approach angle so the bumper sits flush with the body . There are also light behind the bumper . I have used the smaller rcoffroad.eu shackles .

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The sliders are a bit longer than the average ones , they also have plate which allow for mounting of the battery plate. they are also cut at a 45 degree angle for easier sliding.

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the rear design is similar to the front , the shackle mounts are in a different position. the shackles are the bigger ones from rcoffroad.eu . The lower tube is offset a bit deeper for a better angle.

i am very pleased with the end result, so is my dad who took up brazing in december .

here are a couple of impromptu shots from the front of my flat.

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next step is to wire up the front lights , clean up the excess shoegoo and fill the holes from the original bumper.

its back ! Where are the bumpers ?

guess who’s back from the secret technology center ¬†?

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the Scx10 is now sporting a servo winch installed on a custom plate .

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you might notice that its missing the sliders and the bumpers , because the new ones are being powder coated because the first paint attempt was done poorly by me. Also new are the light buckets and proper lights in the front .

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The light buckets are Tamiya Wrangler H/J and K parts and fit perfectly on the Cherokee. i used a shitload of shoe goo to hold it down but it fits and holds. I also used some black electrical tape to cover up the places where the paint flaked of, it would look even better if i find some silver tape.

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need to solder up the LEDs for the headlights tomorrow.

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